atsman (atsman) wrote,


Я уже представлял Хельмута. Это тот самый отвязный австрияк, который предпринял путешествие на поезде от самой Вены аж до самого Пхеньяна. О нём вчера напомнил krukumbush, который тоже "железнодорожник", правда, в отличие от Хельмута, профессиональный. Кстати, френд не так давно вместе с сынишкой пересёк на поездах Соединённые Штаты с запада на восток и написал, снабдив прекрасными фотографиями, превосходный, едва ли не поминутный отчёт. Рекомендую заглянуть к нему. Итак, krukumbush напомнил, а puhka настоял, чтобы я выложил ссылку...

Рассказ Хельмута написан по-английски. Поскольку английский язык у рассказчика неродной, он написан просто, безыскусно, не так, как бы написали Уилки Коллинз или Чарльз Диккенс, однако читается с интересом, одним духом. Вот, например, как он описывает посадку в "корейский" вагон в Иркутске (кстати, Х. обнаруживает и приличное знание русского языка):

The train finally came in the station and although it was still dark, the Korean sleeping car could be recognized from the distance, as it looks different from the Russian cars.

After the train stopped and the conductors opened the door, the Korean people (there were about 5 of them) began to load their big, heavy cartons with unknown content. When we approached the door and wanted to show our tickets, the conductors, who were "guarding" our "entrance-door to North Korea", said only "zdes neljsa, zdes nelsja, drugoj vagon" (which means "here forbidden, here forbidden, other vagon"). They even didn't want to look at the ticket and didn't understand me (or didn't want to) when I said "my do Phenjana edim" (We are going to Pyongyang). I wanted to show the passport with the North Korean visa, but it seemed that they didn't want to have anything to do with us, the conductor only continued saying "drugoj, russkij vagon" and so on. Around us the Korean people were still loading stuff and looked at us strange backpackers…

What to do now? Will our plan already fail in Irkutsk?

At this moment a Russian conductor ("provodnik") from the Komsomolsk-bound sleeping car noticed that we had some problem and came to us. We explained him the situation.

Then the following happened (you have to know, that the RZD-conductor was quite tall and wearing the authoritative-looking RZD-uniform): He shouted "Provodnik!" to the direction of the door of the Korean sleeping car and gave the man, who reacted, an unmistakable sign to come here. He then showed him the ticket and – without speaking any word – first pointed to the car and place number on the tickets, then on us and then towards the Korean sleeping car. Unbelievable!

In the face of the Korean conductor we could notice his respect for the Russian conductors and he said only "khorosho, khorosho" – and let us in! Perfect, the first hurdle is done!

On the corridor of the sleeping car it was quite dark, cold and the air was smoky. Koreans were shifting cartons around and looking at us like at aliens. The conductor showed us our compartments and we put down our backpacks on the beds and left the car again.

Oliver said goodbye to his girlfriend and she took a photo of us with the North Korean sleeping car:

We were joking that now the "Songun-era" (*) will begin for us ;-)

Хельмут крепит австрийско-корейскую дружбу

Helmut drinks vodka with North Korean conductors

Хельмут покупает вареники (ст. Амазар)

Babushka selling vareniki

Здесь начало отчёта о путешествии. Здесь начало "корейской" части отчёта.
Tags: dprk, north korea, КНДР, Северная Корея

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